Laos: the Meditative Beauty of Luang Prabang

When I decided, on a whim, to visit Laos as part of a trip to Cambodia,  I really didn’t know anything about the country.  It doesn’t have a big-ticket tourist attraction of Angkor Wat like Cambodia.  It is landlocked, lacking the glorious beaches of neighboring Thailand or Vietnam.  It also lacks the political turbulence of neighboring Myanmar.  While certainly accessible, it hasn’t quite managed to grab worldwide attention, for either good or bad reasons.

I’m here to tell you it should, because Laos is gorgeous, the food is amazing, and if you like temples, they have got temples.  (Guys, I really like temples).  Not to mention it’s former capital city, Luang Prabang, has got to be the most charming city in Southeast Asia.

Every morning in Luang Prabang starts with the early-morning ritual of Tak Bat, or alms-giving.  Monks walk through the streets just after dawn, collecting offerings from the faithful.  It is a very simple and lovely ritual, but has become a bit fraught now that tourists also flock to see it.  While most people maintain a respectful distance and use a zoom while taking photos, it only takes a few who get up in the monks’ faces and use flash, or who try to take a selfie while giving an offering, to put a damper on things.

I thought a lot about whether to give alms.  In the end, I decided not to - I’m not Catholic, and while I have visited Notre Dame Cathedral and sat quietly observing as mass was given, I wouldn’t take communion or give confession.  It would feel to me like turning somebody else’s religion into theater.  I felt the same way about tak bat.  (I opted instead to make donations at several temples).

And speaking of temples... 

There are also a number of excellent excursions from the city, including day trips to spectacular waterfalls and a nearby elephant sanctuary. 

If you go: a delightful blend of traditional and French colonial architecture, Luang Prabang is an excellent place for a leisurely visit.  Staying in the old town puts you closest to the best sights.  The food is also an excellent fusion of Laotian and French - my favorite were the fresh pastries with tropical fruit fillings.